Playing in Dubai:
The Old and The New
It’s well worth hiring an "abra", one of the traditional water taxi boats for a tour of the creek (but do check the going rate and be prepared to negotiate!). It’s a truly memorable experience, enabling you to see the ancient and modern sights of the middle of Dubai and where both meet..
There are dhows that dock alongside each other at the Dhow Wharfage. To this day, the dhows still bring in textiles, spices and other goods from across the Middle East and India although the range of goods has no doubt increased considerably over the years. The dhows are are not just simply ’oriental boats’ - in many cases you will find those who brave the waters of the Persian Gulf and Indian Ocean actually make a temporary high-seas home in these wonderfully coloured and shaped boats.
What makes this part of Dubai so unique is the stark contrast of the the Dhow Wharfage compared to the image of Dubai we get from travel brochures and business magazines - the ultra modern 5 star hotels found on the creek such as the Sheraton Dubai Creek and the Radisson SAS Hotel Dubai Deira Creek, contrast starkly with the traditional dhows and resident workers.
Deira Old Souk is near the mouth of the creek on the north shore and provides an even greater contrast with creek’s modern luxury hotels. It is a memorable experience to just enter the Spice Souk and inhale all the traditional Middle Eastern spice, perfume scents and aromas. Unlike the dried, powdered packeted versions we buy from supermarkets at home, there are fresh chillies, cardamon and saffron piled high outside the spice shops.
The famous Dubai Gold Souk, near Baladiya Street is located at the far end of the Antique Souk. Windows are brimming with all manner of gold products - not for the faint hearted!
Where many consider to be one of the most fascinating areas of Dubai is located on the south side across the creek from the Spice Souk. Located here is the Bur Dubai Souk and the Textile Souk alongside the Dubai Museum.
If anyone mentions the name ‘Meena Bazaar’, this is the area they’re talking about! It’s one of the oldest areas in the city and hosts a predominantly East Indian population, with a multitude of shops selling gold, electronics, textiles, carpets etc. If you like your shopping frenetic and crowded, then you’ll love this place! We were lucky enough to be escorted by a couple of people we knew as neighbours in the UK who emigrated to Dubai recently and frankly were glad of their company. We got expert bartering advice (cut price cameras and memory cards) and didn’t have to look like ‘rabbits caught in car headlights’ in the process. Admittedly you take your chances there with any electronic goods purchased as guarantees are not really part of the deal but the goods we bought from there were brand new and have been trouble free to date.
The Dubai Museum is in the same locality and is the perfect place for an introduction to the heritage and culture of the Emirate, so don’t miss it!
Finally, next to these important buildings is the historic area of Bastakia Quarter. This is a picturesque heritage site that is being carefully renovated and turned into a pedestrianised conservation area and don’t forget, if you want an altogether complete contrast to either the old souks or the glitz and glamour of Dubai’s luxury hotels, there’s the Al Khor Wildlife Sanctuary (managed by the World Wildlife Fund and the Emirates Wildlife Society), which can be found at the upper part of Dubai Creek. Here thousands of flamingos, waders and other seasonal birds, many of which migrate to Dubai seasonally, can be viewed from any one of three observation posts.
